Local recipes risk sinking into oblivion

Local recipes risk sinking into oblivion

Fermin Apestegia

Try this weekend to do an exercise that might even be fun. Ask your family and friends how many dishes they remember from childhood and early adolescence; how many who never enjoyed again when those wonderful years passed. Hey, casseroles of our mothers and grandmothers! What is good about this game is that not only tastes and aromas will come back to your mind, but, most importantly, a lot of pleasant memories of the time, which, perhaps, did not get better, but it remained in our memory as a fabulous time. . . Pure nostalgia. What is it all about?

A group of experts in nutrition and gastronomy met at a congress in Bilbao a few days before the lockdown and did the same. At this desk were specialists from the Spanish Society of Catering (SENC) and the Royal Academy of Medicine of the Basque Country, as well as presidents of various autonomous gastronomic academies in Spain and members of university research departments. healthy food. Together they formed the Scientific Gastronomy Group, which set out to prepare an initial report on dishes that are already eaten from time to time or that have been outright forgotten. So that? To bring them back to life.

world heritage

According to SENC scientific director and chief promoter of the initiative, dietitian doctor Javier Arancheta, this is a question that goes beyond pure romance. If the Mediterranean Diet is recognized as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO, the loss of this entire recipe book would mean abandoning a very important part of our history and dietary culture to its own fate. In aggravated circumstances, don’t forget that the Mediterranean Basin Diet is the only diet that has been scientifically proven to be highly nutritious.

The first part of the work has already been done. More than 70 nutritionists from all over Spain have compiled some 200 vintage recipes, including appetizers, main courses, desserts and drinks. There is everything. Boiled, stews, soups, rice dishes, salads, stews, roasts, compotes, sweets, dressings, soft drinks, spirits… I said nothing was missing.

The nutritional value

“The whole of Spanish gastronomy is of great gastronomic value, and although each area prepared it from the products that were at hand,” says Aranza, “the final way of preparing them has always been very similar. It doesn’t matter if it’s Astorga chickpeas, Asturian beans or beans from Tolosa or Guernica, they are all dishes that fall under the Mediterranean concept. Therefore, from the very beginning he is very healthy, ”says the expert.

The group collaborated with a chain of restaurants, which in many cases produced restored recipes to photograph and document the research. This work has been collected in a special monograph for the 25th anniversary of the scientific publication “Spanish Journal of Catering”, published by SENC for its members and subscribers. The publication received such a good response that the group is considering preparing a publication for the general public.

In the meantime, two missions have been proposed. First, review all of these recipes and improve them nutritionally. Second, work with the restaurant sector to include them on your menus. The goal is for them to survive, to cook less and less at home and spend even less time in the kitchen. You should wear more apron. This is the healthiest!

Snails with tomatoes (Biscay)

Cooking Ingredients 120 snails, water, 1 onion, 1 bay leaf, salt, 10 tablespoons of olive oil.
biscay sauce 1 green onion, 2 large onions, pulp of 8 chorizo ​​peppers, obtained after soaking them in water, 1/2 liter of fried tomato, 250 g of diced spicy chorizo, 200 g of diced ham, a pinch of chili pepper.

Training The snails are cleaned by hanging in a net for at least 72 hours until all impurities are removed. After cleaning, they are well cleaned with vinegar, water and salt. They are placed in a saucepan filled with water and salt over medium heat until the water boils. Drain and rinse with water. They are again placed in another pot filled with water, with onions, bay leaves and salt. Simmer for about 60 minutes and drain again, reserving the broth.

Biscay sauce is made by frying green onions and coarsely chopped onions in a saucepan with olive oil. Add the spicy chorizo ​​and lean ham, all diced, and continue to cook gently until everything is very tender and coloured. The chorizo ​​pepper pulp and fried tomato are then added, and after 20 minutes of cooking, the cooked snails and the tip of the chili are added. Cook for another twenty minutes, adding snail broth if necessary. Take the opportunity to fix the seasonings.

Coating It is served at the table in a clay pot, from which each guest serves his portion on a plate.

While snails are usually cooked the Biscay style, there are several variations. In Cantabria, a very similar dish is prepared, which is a mountain-type snail. There are different recipes for cooking snails, for example, Madrid; a la llauna (a la “tin”, alluding to an oven tray), typical of Catalonia; Malagasy with almond sauce or Mallorca.

Dorado in chorizo ​​pepper sauce (Alava)

Ingredients 2 sea bream 800 grams each, 5 dried red peppers (choriceros), 3 garlic cloves, 1 medium onion, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon sweet paprika, 1.5 cups fish broth, extra virgin olive oil, salt and parsley .

Training Clean the sea bream well and cut it into slices. Salt them, pass through the flour in a pan with butter, mark and put in a clay pot. Put red pepper in large strips in hot water to boil for twenty or thirty minutes. Lightly fry whole cloves of garlic and chopped onion in gilthead oil, add flour, one and a half glasses of fish broth (better) or water and paprika. Lay the boiled red pepper strips on top of the sea bream, meat side down, covering it. Add sea bream, sofrito and some pepper broth. Sprinkle with parsley and simmer for another 15 minutes, moving the pan around to thicken the sauce. Let him rest. Serve hot with sauce and chorizo.

It can be popularly defined as the marmitaco’s cousin stew, or as a garlic soup to which crumbled cod is added. Its name appears to be derived from the Basque term zurrupatu (Basque to sip or suck). A suitable dish for hydration, also typical of Navarre.

Ingredients 300 grams of cod, 250 grams of potatoes, 200 grams of bread, 1 head of garlic, olive oil.

Training Take a piece of cod and crumble it. Once this is done, place it in water, shaking and squeezing a few times to de-salt. Then take out the shredded cod, squeezing it out as much as possible to make it as dry as possible. Pour oil into a clay pot and fry a piece of garlic in it. Before it takes on color, add the cod and some potatoes cut into thin squares. Let them cool down a bit, add enough boiling water to bring the broth to a boil. At the end, add a few slices of bread sliced ​​u200bu200bfor soup and serve after a slight boil.

Raki (La Rioja)

The dish is on the verge of extinction, not because it was no longer prepared, but because of the indiscriminate settlement of Spanish rivers carried out in the 1980s. The institutional program was carried out with the appearance of an American crab, infected with a fungus virus that is fatal to the Iberian population. The few that survive are protected and their capture is prohibited.

Ingredients 1 kg of crayfish, 1 kg of ripe tomatoes, 1 small onion, 2 cloves of garlic, chorizo ​​pepper, extra virgin olive oil, sugar and salt.

Training Only catching or buying red crab is allowed; not brown, olive green or grey. Crabs are washed, stirring them well in clean water, and then castrated. It consists of tearing out the intestines, which can make the final taste of the dish bitter, by removing its central fin with the live animal face up, holding it by the abdomen. Immediately afterwards, they are cooked with a pinch of salt until they turn bright red. They are removed and saved. Chorizo ​​peppers are soaked and, when rehydrated, preserve the meat. Cut the washed tomatoes into small squares. Put them in a saucepan with chopped onions for two to three minutes. Add a tomato and a tablespoon of sugar and put the pan on a slow fire for 20 minutes. Mix in a food mill and return to low heat. Add chorizo ​​pepper and season. After ten minutes, add the crabs and cook everything together to blend the flavors. The recipe can be enhanced with chili and/or ham and chorizo ​​cubes pre-sauteed with garlic and onions.

Chungur with tomato (Navarre)

Ingredients Pork shank, extra virgin olive oil. For the sauce, you will need 1 kg of ripe tomatoes, 1 small onion, 2 cloves of garlic, extra virgin olive oil, a pinch of sugar and a pinch of salt.

Training It is the forerunner of lean meat with tomatoes and was the dish used to complete the ham. It is made from pork ankle, soaked for 24 hours, and then stewed for two and a half hours in a saucepan, where it is brought to a tomato sauce. It was a typical dish of the city’s holiday brigades, to which, if it rained on previous days, snails were added. Subsequently, the pork ankle was replaced with ham slices, and lean meat with tomatoes appeared, which is also very typical of Navarre.